The Breyer SpotLight: Your Horse Model Market ResourceHi <
Updates: Old Timer Collector's PageIt's that time of year again when school will be starting up, the crispness of fall is in the air and everyone is getting back into their routines. To wrap some summer events we took an extra week off, so that is why this eZine edition is a week late. But, we are back with some treats for you! While we are all out running to get the school supplies and getting organized, let's remember to stay safe. Pay attention to those little ones who are not easily seen behind parked cars or getting on and off the buses as they start their routes again. A model that comes to mind during this time of year for me is the Old Timer; he just seems to be the kind to have been pulling one of those old kind of school buses on the first day back many years ago. Collector Heather Bruen has shared her collection with us: Thank you Heather! Did you know that according to Nancy Young's collectors guide, the blinders on this mold are separately molded pieces that are glued onto the horse? This differs from the Bulking Mule (the only other mold with blinders) whose blinders/blinkers are an integral part of the mold. Also, the early models of the Old Timer mold have the round “Breyer Molding Co” stamp only. Later ones have the round stamp AND the “U.S.A.” stamp as well. Some “U.S.A.” models have the “B” stamp in addition…. Just a few fun facts on the Old Timer mold. Be sure to stop by and add your comments to Heathers collection or to create your own page as well! For today's article, we continue with part II of the preparation of the model before starting the customizing process. Article: STRIPPING PAINTED MODELS - OILS/ENAMELS Part IITo strip oil paints and stubborn acrylics, I suggest you try paint stripper. My favorite is the 3M Safest Stripper because it is water soluble, although it can be difficult to find. Make sure you always read the instructions and cautions on the back and always wear gloves when using this stuff or it will ruin your hands. Give your model a thick coating of the striper - I use an old small (approx. 1 to 1 ½ inch) paintbrush (the kind used when painting houses - not an artist's brush). Check your model after about 20 minutes to see if the paint has started to get soft. If the stripper has run off portions of the model apply another coat with the paintbrush. Continue checking your model until the paint starts to get soft. Once the paint has softened and comes off easily, wash your model with warm soapy water and a grout brush to remove the paint. Another method for removing the tougher pains is oven cleaner. This method absolutely must always be done outdoors!! I use the Easy Off odorless brand. Place your model on newspapers and spray and even coat on your model. Wait about 20 minutes and check to see if the paint comes off. If not, spray the model again. Always make sure you wear rubber gloves when using this method. Depending on the paint type and the amount, this can be a rather long process and repeated sprayings must be done. When the paint finally softens, wash it under warm soapy water with a grout brush. More often than not when it comes to removing any paint off a model it is the work that must go into it. Once you decide to remove the paint you can't change your mind midstream or your model will be terribly uneven and you will have ridges where the paint has bubbled and curled which requires a great deal of sanding to get it completely smooth again. I am a big fan of the grout brush for removing paint; it gets into the cracks and crevices with ease and is stiff enough to not simply bend around the model. Scotch scrubber pads work well on the larger areas of the model such as the barrel and back. Sometimes it will take several sessions of soaking and scraping to get the model completely stripped but if you take your time the end result will be well worth it. Next time we'll take a look at doing some common repairs to your favorite models so they are “whole” again. Until then, enjoy your collecting! |
